mountain bike led light bar w/ makita battery

With summer approaching in Australia, the attraction of riding on cool nights is obvious.
Although a decent bicycle light costs at least $200-300.
This guide will show you how to develop mountain bike lights using small LED lights. (
Usually used for four-wheel drive)
And a cordless drill worth less than $100.
For this project, you need: I found a 1.
Five amperes an hour and 18 volts Makita batteries power my six-year model.
Before I noticed the darkening of the light, the five-inch light went on for nearly two hours.
You may have a different brand of drill battery. You want to use it. I believe there are many other three-dimensional printing designs that you can adapt to your needs. Enjoy!

how to mount and wire a light bar

Ultimate video guide on how to install and connect after-sales light strips on a vehicle.
This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger who has a custom hidden grill mounting bracket.
While you can use the attached cabling or aftermarket cabling settings that come with the kit, my Cabling Guide is completely from scratch.
I did make my plan roughly with some basic measurements to determine if this works and draw a rough 3d sketch on AutoCAD.
I will provide the plan for this project free of charge in PDF on my website.
Tools/supplies needed: the front end of the truck does need to be disassembled.
I marked the approximate position of the grill with straight edges and tape to avoid me removing or reinstalling the grill.
The Grill on this truck is secured to the top with four bolts and stuck in two clips at the bottom above the bumper.
I could have drilled two holes in the bumper, but to be honest, I don\’t like this approach.
To do this, I can give the truck a custom look, not only is the drill chrome bumper hard because the chrome plating is very hard, but it will eventually endanger the chrome plating.
Once you have penetrated the chrome, there will be rust or peeling.
Now for materials, it\’s good to order a little more than you actually need.
I went to a local metal supplier and gave them a list of the materials I needed, right here.
If you find a metal supplier or machine store, it is likely that buying this material is much cheaper than shopping in a big box or hardware store.
I have Schedule 40 1 \”diameter pipe, 1\” 90 degree bend, I will explain why I take this route in a moment, 1 1/4 \”by 1/4\” flat bar, 1/2 flat bar 1 3/16 \”.
Everything needs to be cut by size.
First mark the cut with paint marks and then use the graffiti for accurate measurements.
Using an angle grinder with a cutting disc, the cutting may need to be squared with a file or grinder and a grinding disc.
For this I have used flux core mig welder which is a great project to perfect your welding skills if you are new to welding.
A sticky weld is needed first to hold everything together instead of running the beads at the back.
To help penetrate, reduce the deformation and keep the weld seam down, the welded joint is chamfer.
Drawing options will vary depending on your personal preference.
For the preparation work, wipe the pieces with wax and grease remover so that there will be no contaminants when sanding.
Depending on the type of metal used, whether it\’s paint, the manufacturer\’s oxidation, slag, or something else that might affect the final finish, you\’ll need to remove any existing coating.
I used some grinding pads and then finished with 220 sandpaper before the primer stage.
Using a hand held Sander allows me to remove any sharp edges or burrs and also use files if you wish.
Wipe these parts again using wax and grease remover to make sure they are clean and free of any contaminants.
For primer, I did explain the basic rust fix in an old video, so I\’m not going to repeat the same info here.
Using a fill primer allows you to hide light defects on the steel surface.
Steel from manufacturing may have some dents, scratches or other forms of defects, so you can hide them if you want.
Apply primer, it is important to work in a well ventilated area and put on a respirator.
Choose the color and finish of your choice and for me I will use glossy black.
The bar will remain subtle, easy to keep clean, glossy and smooth, matching the black truck.
Apply paint and it\’s hard when finish the lower side as I don\’t want to leave it until the next day.
So I ended up installing a bolt, wrapped a hard thread around the bolt, hung it up and painted it on the bottom.
Unfortunately, the diffuser does not clear the bracket that is fixed on the radiator bracket, so it needs to be notch.
I used the marker pen and the square to make a rough in this area.
Create a symmetrical cut using a square.
Next, I made a clean slice in the plastic with a heat knife.
Since the plastic is not completely square, I have to do a few tests and make adjustments accordingly.
Once satisfied, I cleaned my wound with a fine document.
About 1 vertical cut.
5 inch and the end of horizontal cutting is about 3/4 inch.
Finally, I can reinstall the plastic diffuser installed in the opposite of disassembly.
Make sure these push clips are the right seats.
Install the pipe rack with lights.
I have left light on this, just personal preference.
I used the foam package that came with the light strip to help secure it in place.
Some threads are also applied to bolts and washers.
This seems to be a more compact workspace, but it doesn\’t work worse than it does on the start-up motor.
Just be careful around the radiator and do not damage the fine.
Wiring starts completely from scratch.
While Auxbeam does provide a great wiring kit, the wiring I installed was custom made for the vehicle and matched very well with the wiring in stock, with a neat design.
If you want to add more lights to your car, it also has room for expansion.
Tools/supplies required: waterproof connections are used to help prevent water or moisture from entering the connection so that we do not fail in the future.
The installation of these wind and rain connectors requires a special ginning device.
For wiring, a line gauge diagram is required to determine what line gauge is needed.
This is based on distance and Light current.
Undersized wires can cause voltage drop and overheating, which is a risk of potential fire.
An after-sales fuse box is mounted on the stand, which is much easier than access to the vehicle\’s stock fuse box and looks cleaner than the online fuse box.
Most importantly, we have room for expansion and this box can hold up to four fuses.
For the curl connection, I have removed the plastic box and installed the Shrink tube filled with the adhesive.
Personally, I think it looks cleaner, and it will help to seal the connection if you push it to a tight wire.
Need to run wires and switches inside the cab.
For this case, I am using a switch to ground, which prevents the cab from being powered off and requires fewer wires to run.
I made a hole in the firewall with a stepped drill and then installed a rubber collar.
Remove the dashboard as needed to make sure there is enough space behind the switch.
If you don\’t have a drill bit large enough to make the switch, drilling holes in the dashboard can be a bit challenging.
I replaced it with a wood stab bit, covered the surface with tape as protection, and then cut the hole.
The Thorn did a clean-up in the plastic.
Unfortunately, it needs to be slightly larger, so I used a grinding bit to turn it on a little bit.
Main power cord, I left this to the end.
There is a Tang on the side of the battery terminal fixture to secure the bolts.
I bend them back, pop the bolts and insert the main line that powers the new fuse box.
Some vehicles do have a main power bar that can be opened under the hood, inside the cabin, or in the trunk.
This is not, so the battery is the main hook.
Once everything is done, tie up the new wire with some small zipper so it doesn\’t interfere with anything and looks clean.
Keep up with my latest tutorials and don\’t forget to keep an eye on my profile, be sure to check out my YOUTUBE page to meet all your DIY needs.

Introduce Yourself (Example Post)

This is an example post, originally published as part of Blogging University. Enroll in one of our ten programs, and start your blog right.

You’re going to publish a post today. Don’t worry about how your blog looks. Don’t worry if you haven’t given it a name yet, or you’re feeling overwhelmed. Just click the “New Post” button, and tell us why you’re here.

Why do this?

  • Because it gives new readers context. What are you about? Why should they read your blog?
  • Because it will help you focus you own ideas about your blog and what you’d like to do with it.

The post can be short or long, a personal intro to your life or a bloggy mission statement, a manifesto for the future or a simple outline of your the types of things you hope to publish.

To help you get started, here are a few questions:

  • Why are you blogging publicly, rather than keeping a personal journal?
  • What topics do you think you’ll write about?
  • Who would you love to connect with via your blog?
  • If you blog successfully throughout the next year, what would you hope to have accomplished?

You’re not locked into any of this; one of the wonderful things about blogs is how they constantly evolve as we learn, grow, and interact with one another — but it’s good to know where and why you started, and articulating your goals may just give you a few other post ideas.

Can’t think how to get started? Just write the first thing that pops into your head. Anne Lamott, author of a book on writing we love, says that you need to give yourself permission to write a “crappy first draft”. Anne makes a great point — just start writing, and worry about editing it later.

When you’re ready to publish, give your post three to five tags that describe your blog’s focus — writing, photography, fiction, parenting, food, cars, movies, sports, whatever. These tags will help others who care about your topics find you in the Reader. Make sure one of the tags is “zerotohero,” so other new bloggers can find you, too.